Header image  
FALL 2003 EXHIBIT  
line decor
  
line decor
 
 


 

Sending A Message: What Your Clothes Reveal About You

The Archives' Fall 2003 exhibit prompted visitors to consider how humans have used clothing as a means of communicating who and what they are and how those themes relate to society in general. From a cursory glance at a person's apparel, one can, for example, get a sense of whether the wearer is an individualist or a social conformist and insights into his or her social status and rules. Clothing can also transmit unmistakable signals in regard to the wearer's sex, age, marital status and religious beliefs, their national and political affiliations, and their hierarchy in the workplace.

To explore the historic role of clothing as messenger, we drew upon our extensive mid-19th to  late 20th century materials, which we supplemented with articles loaned to us.

blue gown teal gown black dress

The elegant gown on the left (c1997, Scassi Collection) was created by the world-renowned designer Arnold Scaasi. Mr. Scaasi is know for having dressed  famous women, such as Jacqueline Kennedy, former first-lady Mrs. Dwight D. Eisenhower, and Barbra Streisand. The gown is made of heavily embroidered organza and gives the appearance of having nothing underneath.

The gown in the middle (c1961, Emilius Collection) is made of blue silk shantung and is heavily embroidered and embellished with clear beads. It would be available to a much larger group of women than the Scaasi.

The dress on the right (c1895, William Penn Collection) displays the signature silhouette of the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Women went through pains, both literally and figuratively speaking, to attain the perfect hourglass figure.  Utilizing hoop skirts, bustles and corsets, they encased their bodies in pieces of metal and yards of fabric. A woman with this sought-after figure was certainly not expected to clean a house, scrub clothes or even pick up a child. She was an idealized creature of privilege.

03

 

This burgundy wool two-piece woman's day suit (c1960's, Harten Collection) is classic Coco Chanel. Ms. Chanel transformed women's clothing, giving women the opportunity to wear nonrestrictive, comfortable outfits.

Men's suits in the 1940's (Cory Collection) spoke conservatism. Wartime restrictions on materials such as wool reduced many fabrics to short supply. The owner of this outfit, however, was fortunate to own a suit with cuffs since even such small amounts of material were being eliminated from suits during this period.

03Status in the workplace in the early 1900's could be determined by the type of hat a man wore. The Black Beaver Top Hat (top, c1900, Russell Collection) signifies an individual in the upper echelon of the workplace. The Bowler or Derby Hat, (right, c1920, Thrush Collection) would have been worn by a man who held an upper-level management position. The Wool Tweed Cap, (lower left, c1920, Stewart Collection) was the laborer's hat.
03

 

Clothing has long provided a way for us to single out others within a crowd. Organizations have capitalized on this fact, by requiring members to dress in certain colors or providing clothing with easily recognizable logos or insignia.

Serving the community has long been the mission of our local police departments. This police officer's coat (left, c1940's, Cofforth Collection) belonged to a police woman working in Indiana , PA.

kkk

 

Established in 1866, the Ku Klux Klan was a violent response to the enfranchisement of former male slaves in the post-Civil War south. This Klan outfit (Davis Collection) was worn in the 1920's during the second, and largest, KKK movement.

03

 

 

This navy enlisted man's uniform (left, c1914, Nickles Collection) made of signature dark blue wool was worn during World War I. Distinctive to the navy enlisted personnel, the pant legs are wider at the bottom, hence the name "bellbottom". This cut traces back to the sailors' job of "swabbing" their ships' decks with mops. The extra material enabled them to roll up the pant legs to keep them dry.

03 03
(Above, c1945, Thompson Collection). Founded in 1941, the Civil Air Patrol became an official auxiliary of the Army Air force in 1943. The organization's main purpose was providing civilian air support to the U.S. armed forces during the second World War. By joining, men not enlisted in a branch of the military could help their country by flying along the east and west coasts searching for enemy submarines and vessels.

60sIn the 1960's, for many, clothing became a means of expressing oneself and proclaiming defiance of parents' wishes. Blue jeans, headbands, and Indian-influenced cotton shirts became daily attire. As a means of self expression, the young wanted clothing tight and their hair long. The green suede mini-dress with matching purse (Barron Collection) is indicative of the new 1960's style.

The 1970's brought the age of disco; dance floors, flashing lights, and the now infamous Studio 54 in New York. Disco became not only a way of dancing but a life. Men's hair was permed and women's hair was curled and sprayed, all in an attempt to attain that perfect disco look. This light green polyester leisure suit (Bender Collection) with matching silk print shirt (Taylor Collection) is typical of the style worn by a very dapper man of the 1970's.