by
Kiersten Wilhelm
Arnold Scaasi is an American couture designer best known for his glamorous evening gown creations designed for a celebrity clientele that includes Barbra Streisand, Elizabeth Taylor, Joan Crawford and numerous first ladies from Mamie Eisenhower to both Barbara and Laura Bush.
Born Arnold Isaacs in 1935, he is the son of a Canadian furrier. Influenced at an early age by his Aunt Ida’s fashion savvy, this creative young man chose a career in fashion design. After studying couture design in Paris, he moved to New York in the 1950’s, changed his name from Isaacs to Scaasi by reversing the spelling and brought European sophistication to American fashion.
This exhibition showcases twenty-two Scaasi designs from the Fashion Archives. Our three collections of original designs encompass a wide variety of styles, silhouettes and materials, yet all are quintessentially Scaasi creations. The common thread among these dresses is the sense of confidence and beauty they instill in the wearer. These are dresses that make an impact.
This is achieved with bold colors, playful prints, glittering embellishments or a striking silhouette. Rich velvets, colorful silks, metallic brocade and exquisite lace are among the sumptuous fabrics used in these creations. Embellishments and details such as sequins, bows, rhinestones and pleating abound, to add a glamorous touch. Silhouettes range from sleek and sensuous to full and grand. All of these elements have been carefully orchestrated to complement the look of each dress. The result is a symphony of design, color and textures distinctively Scaasi and simply elegant.
Arnold Scaasi: The Couturier Behind the Designs
For almost fifty years Mr. Arnold Scaasi has given women exactly what they want: dresses that make them feel like a million dollars. His designs of unmistakably unique and high quality fabrics make each woman feel exquisite the moment they touch her body. This talent has made Mr. Scaasi a legend in his own time.
The Scaasi influence can be seen at every important party in America’s fashion capitals. His designs are worn by women of taste and flair who want to stand out. Scaasi clothes have been worn by many of America’s First Ladies: Mamie Eisenhower, Jacqueline Kennedy, Lady Bird Johnson, Hillary Rodham Clinton and Barbara and Laura Bush have all made news in Scaasi. One particularly memorable occasion was Barbara Bush’s selection of her favorite designer to create most of her Inaugural Week wardrobe, which elicited rave reviews. For the Inaugural Ball she wore a sumptuous blue velvet and satin Scaasi dress that was photographed repeatedly.
Born Arnold Isaacs in Montreal, the future designer traveled to Australia at age 14, to visit his glamorous Aunt Ida. Recognized as a woman of great style, his aunt influenced her creative nephew to pursue a career in fashion. After studying commercial art in Melbourne, Scaasi returned to Montreal to enroll at the prestigious Cotnoir-Capponi School of Design where he completed the three-year course in a record 18 months. One of his professors summed up his unique talent: “A student must copy before he creates, but this was not the case for Arnold. He would start copying and end by improvising. His finished model was more stylish than the original concept. He is truly creative.”
This talented young designer was soon creating clothes for private clients and saving money to go to Paris, where he enrolled at the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture Parisienne. Shortly after completing his courses, Scaasi landed a job with the prestigious House of Paquin, earning a salary of $50 a month. He returned to New York to work with the legendary Charles James. By 1956, Scaasi was ready to strike out on his own.
With $2,000 in savings, a seamstress, a tailor and a small Manhattan studio, Scaasi opened a fledgling ready-to-wear business. By reversing the spelling of his name, Arnold Isaacs became Arnold Scaasi. Within two years, he had won the coveted Coty Fashion Critics Awards, the NBC-TV “Today” Award, the prestigious Neiman Marcus Award and three Chicago “Gold Coast” Fashion awards.
He later received the Award for Creative Excellence and eventually the fashion world’s most prestigious honor, the Lifetime Achievement Award, both from the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA). Mrs. Barbara Bush presented the latter award to Mr. Scaasi.
He has won accolades from individuals and organizations both inside and outside the fashion industry. A major retrospective, SCAASI: THE JOY OF DRESSING UP, at the New York Historical Society, drew over 85,000. Another recent retrospective, SCAASI, EXUBERANT FASHION at the Fashion Institute of Technology, garnered an even larger attendance. In addition SCAASI was made a “Living Landmark” by the New York Landmarks Conservancy for his professional distinction and personal caring to preserve the “Best of New York City.”
Mr. Scaasi’s talents are varied and go beyond his couture made-to-order collections. SCAASI licensing programs have included Scaasi Bride, one of the most successful bridal ready-to-wear collections, Scaasi Furs and a collection of “dresses at a price” offered on QVC, which sold over 2,200 units in 41 minutes. The designer’s signature fragrance was launched in 1989.
His first book, Scaasi: A Cut Above, was published by Rizzoli in 1996. His latest publication, Women I Have Dressed (and Undressed!) from Scribner was released in 2004 and is a read of very personal memories about the famous women in Scaasi’s life.
Carrying his style over into his private life, Mr. Scaasi is keenly interested in 20th century art. His collection includes important works by Picasso, Monet, Leger, DeStael and Brueghel together with an extraordinary wall and ceiling by his friend and fashionable client, Louise Nevelson. Scaasi lives in a dramatic duplex overlooking the East River and has homes in Long Island and Palm Beach.
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